Sarina Kamini is a cookbook author and cooking school teacher specializing in regional Indian cuisine.

Today, she is making dal makhani (Pronounced dal mak-knee) which is a lentil curry.

Recipe below:

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Dal Makhani

This isn’t a dish on our regular family roster, and I can safely say that this is pretty much true of any family across India’s regions.

The weight and richness of dal makhani makes it a ‘sometimes’ dish, one that’s ordered when eating out, probably alongside tandoor-cooked naan.

I’ve included it here to demonstrate the impact of fleur de sel, showing how a single change in masala introduces a new library of sensory information.

Serves 8 as part of a meal

24 hours before cooking

¾ cup (150 g) urad dal (black lentils)

¼ cup (50 g) rajma (red kidney beans)

plenty of cold water

For pressure cooking

3 cups (750 ml) water

2 teaspoons fine white sea salt

For the main cooking phase

40 g (1½ oz) salted butter

40 g (1½ oz) ghee

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon crushed garlic

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ cup tomato paste (concentrated purée)

Masala

2 teaspoons fleur de sel

1 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder

1 teaspoon Ammi’s garam masala (page 156)

For simmering

1½ cups (375 ml) water

To finish

20 g (¾ oz) salted butter

¼ cup (125 ml) pouring cream

½ teaspoon red chilli powder (optional)

Method

Soak the urad dal and rajma in plenty of cold water in separate bowls for 24 hours or at least overnight. Drain the soaked dal and beans and put them in a pressure cooker with the water and salt. Set on high heat and cook until the pressure cooker emits three or four jets of steam. Turn to medium, then cook for a further 15–20 minutes. Let the pressure cooker depressurise on its own, then check the dal. When cooked, the lentils and beans should hold their shape but be soft enough to mash. If not, pressure-cook for a little longer, then mash. Alternatively, cook the dal and rajma in a slow cooker or large heavy-based saucepan. Ensure the lentils and beans are soaked for the full 24 hours then cook in plenty of boiling water for about 90 minutes, until tender. Mash when cooked. For the main cooking phase, place a large heavy-based saucepan (I use my large Le Creuset casserole) over medium heat, then add the butter and ghee and cook until melted. Add the onion and cook for 5–7 minutes, until translucent but not caramelised. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for 2–3 minutes, until the raw aroma dissipates. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2–3 minutes until it no longer smells raw. Add the masala and stir. Add the mashed urad dal and rajma mix and stir again. Lower the heat and add one-third of the water. Stir frequently, to prevent it sticking and burning, and to ensure a creamier result. When the water has worked into the dal, add another one-third and cook as before until worked into the dal. Repeat with the remaining water until the dal is rich and creamy. To finish, stir in the butter and cream – and the chilli, if using. Serve with basmati rice and a light sabji.